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It’s another freezing cold winter here in Korea, and the streets are filled with people wearing long padded jackets, officially known as “long padding” (롱패딩) among Koreans.
So how did these long, puffy jackets become a must-have winter item in Korea?
Our Debbie Won explains.
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Padding (패딩) jackets or padded coats are the “national” coat in Korea during winter. There are many reasons why it is popular with Korean …
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주제와 관련된 이미지 padding jacket korea
주제와 관련된 더 많은 사진을 참조하십시오 Must-have winter item in Korea: Long padded jackets (한국 롱패딩 열풍, 언제까지 이어질까?). 댓글에서 더 많은 관련 이미지를 보거나 필요한 경우 더 많은 관련 기사를 볼 수 있습니다.
주제에 대한 기사 평가 padding jacket korea
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- Date Published: 2019. 1. 9.
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What is padding jacket?
/ˌpæd.ɪd ˈdʒæk.ɪt/ a warm hip-length or waist-length coat filled with thick soft material sewn into sections: He wore a big padded jacket and thick mittens.
What are Korean Coats called?
The magoja is a type of long jacket worn with hanbok, the traditional clothing of Korea, and is usually worn on top of the jeogori (short jacket). The po is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat in hanbok.
What are Korean long jackets called?
After doing some research, I found out that these padded goose-down jackets were called “bench coats”, because they are usually worn when athletes are on the bench waiting for their time in the field. They are also sometimes called idol jackets because of the amount of endorsement they get.
Why puffer jackets are at the Centre of Korea class divide?
The popularity of streetwear and street brands has led to increased customer demand for [puffers] in Korea.” Hip-hop and associated visual representations have recently exploded into Asia’s mainstream, prompting a hip-hop-influenced, high-end streetwear obsession.
Is padded jacket warm?
Padded jackets are filled with a synthetic polyfill material, usually trying to mimic the effect of a down jacket. Padded jackets by themselves are fairly warm. These jackets (along with your layers) can withstand temperatures up to -5 degrees.
Do padded jackets keep you warm?
Puffer jackets, also called quilted jackets, have a signature quilted design with sections that are “puffy” between the stitching. They are filled with down insulation or synthetic fibers, both of which can provide a high level of warmth depending on how well they are made and the quality of the synthetic fibers.
Is hanbok Chinese or Korean?
The hanbok (in South Korea) or Chosŏn-ot (in North Korea) is traditional Korean clothes. The term “hanbok” literally means “Korean clothing”.
What do Durumagi means in Korean?
The Durumagi, meaning ‘closed all around‘, is a man’s coat and is part of the Hanbok; the national dress of South Korean. More elaborate hanboks are worn at weddings.
When did Korea stop wearing hanbok?
Overall there were few major changes until the 19th century, when Western dress started to become more popular. This was followed by Japanese colonial rule. The hanbok eventually fell out of fashion in the early 20th century.
How do Koreans dress in winter?
Puffy or padded coats have become extremely popular in South Korea during winters. Approx. 80% of the population wear puffy jackets during winters in Seoul. It has become trendy and even foreigners most of the time think why people in South Korea wear puffy coats in winters.
Why are puffer jackets so popular?
The cozy filling packed into the the iconic outerwear makes for some of the warmest winter coats — which is why puffers are here to stay and evolving with the times each year. In short, puffers make the cold temperatures more bearable whether you’re commuting to the office or enjoying weekend winter activities.
Is the north face popular in Korea?
The jackets have become so popular that they are now lightheartedly referred to as a second school uniform in cash-rich Korea, where The North Face ranks as the No. 1 selling outdoor brand. “Out of 37 students in our class, 15 of them wear a North Face jacket,” said one high school student in Seoul.
Are puffers going out of style?
While puffer jackets were never really out of style, they are certainly more in style this Fall/Winter 2021 to 2022 season.
Will puffer coats go out of style?
Are puffer jackets on trend this year? Quilted textures are one of this season’s hugest trends and that includes the trusty puffer. Whether you opt for a cropped style, or a long puffer coat, you can’t really go wrong with this trend. Not only are they stylish, but they’re so warm too – ideal for the winter months.
Why is it called a puffer jacket?
Style wise, a puffer jackets get their name from the pattern of stitched sections filled with insulation to give it that “puffy” look.
What is padding in clothing?
Padding is thin cushioned material sometimes added to clothes. Padding may also be referred to as batting when used as a layer in lining quilts or as a packaging or stuffing material.
What is the padding?
Padding is used to create space around an element’s content, inside of any defined borders. This element has a padding of 70px.
Which type of jackets are warmest?
- It’s all about the material. No matter how stylish and snug a jacket is, it is the materials used for the coat that will keep you warm and toasty. …
- Wool. …
- Faux Fur. …
- Nylon. …
- Hemp. …
- Flannel. …
- Cashmere. …
- Mohair.
What is padding made of?
Foam padding is low-density flexible foam used in a wide range of applications such as upholstery, bedding, packaging, protective sports wear and more. Typical materials used in the fabrication of different types of foam include polyester, polyether, polystyrene, polyurethane, polyethylene and vinyl.
padded jacket
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List of Korean clothing
Baji Baji ( 바지 ) are a form of baggy pants (see more pictures at commons:Category:Baji).
Chima Chima ( 치마 ) is a type of skirt
Chima jeogori Chima jeogori ( 치마저고리 ) is a type of skirt worn together with a jeogori, a short jacket.
Dangui Dangui is a female upper garment worn for ceremonial occasions during the Joseon Dynasty.[1] Dangui was also called dang -jeogori (Hangul: 당저고리 ), dang-jeoksam (Hangul: 당적삼 ), or dang-hansam (Hangul: 당한삼 ).[2]
Dopo Dopo is a variety of po (an overcoat) mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi since the mid-Joseon period.
Durumagi Durumagi is a lined overcoat worn by men or women with no slit. It is most commonly held closed with a single goreum .[ definition needed ]
Garot Garot is a type of working and everyday dress dyed with the juice of unripe persimmons. It has been worn by Jeju Island locals.
Gwanbok Gwanbok is a Korean general term referring to all business attire of government officers issued by the government, with rank badges on them to distinguish hierarchies.
Hwarot Hwarot is a type of traditional Korean clothing worn during the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty by royal women for ceremonial occasions or by commoners for weddings.[3] It originated from the Kingdom of Khotan, Central Asia.[4]
Jeogori Jeogori is a basic upper garment which has been worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer’s body.
Jeonbok Jeonbok is a type of sleeveless long vest mostly worn by military personnel. It does not have overlapped column on the front side, and was worn over dongdari.
Jokki Jokki is a type of vest.
Kkachi durumagi Kkachi durumagi is a colorful children’s overcoat worn on Korean New Year. It was worn over a jeogori or jokki while the wearer could put a jeonbok over it. Kkachi durumagi was also worn along with headgear such as bokgeon, hogeon or gulle.
Magoja The magoja is a type of long jacket worn with hanbok , the traditional clothing of Korea, and is usually worn on top of the jeogori (short jacket).
Po The po is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat in hanbok .
Sagyusam Sagyusam is a type of po (outer robe) worn by young boys until their coming-of-age ceremony called gwallye. The name was derived from the shape; the lower end of the garment is divided into four parts.[5]
Saekdongot Saekdongot is any hanbok patchworked with colorful stripes. It began to be made in the Goryeo period (918 – 1392). The name literally means ‘many-colored clothing’. It was usually worn by children of the age of one to seven years old. The saekdong can be applied throughout jeogori (a short jacket with sash), majoja (buttoned jacket), durumagi (overcoat), among others.[6][7]
The Best Bench Coat in Korea
EDIT: Reddit user mikesaidyes mentioned that they are more commonly referred to as Long Padding (롱 패딩) by the locals.
It was only my recent trip that I begun looking closely at the fashion of the South Koreans and realized there were so many of them in down jackets. Given the temperature, wearing down is not all that special, but all of them have a distinct same style to them. They were mostly padded, black, long to above the knees, with a hood.
After doing some research, I found out that these padded goose-down jackets were called “bench coats”, because they are usually worn when athletes are on the bench waiting for their time in the field. They are also sometimes called idol jackets because of the amount of endorsement they get. These coats are sort of a social status symbol, with people queuing overnight in the brutal cold to get their hands on the limited editions ones produced by the PyeongChang Winter Olympics. The predecessor to this trend is the shorter version, which led to gangs beating up school kids wearing the North Face ones because they wanted one too.
80% of the teens waiting for the train were in the same coat.
There are a few factors that made these coat sought after. They are warm and easy to match. The more popular ones are foreign-made by global outdoor brands. They are also often endorsed by idols. While I probably won’t be getting one because I try to avoid trends and because minimalism, I wanted to know which are the absolutely best ones you could buy with these factors in mind. While I can’t say these options are what the Koreans will go for, these are what I would get if I live in Korea.
Once again, these are jackets selected specifically to go with the trend and my taste, so they must be
Padded
Black
With a hood
About knee length
490,000 won
I know the brand name is a put off for those who know English, but I picked this for its simplicity and lack of visible logo. The fur component is also removable.
399,000 won
Decente is a local sports brand and while it has a large logo plastered at the back, the details are simple and cool. I’ve seen people wearing it around the streets and it looks like a good and solid choice.
698,000 won
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The North Face came to mind since it was the cause of the gang violence incident. In Japan, we have The North Face Purple Label, aimed at making outdoor gear that works in the city. In Korea, a similar, white label exists to create daily lifestyle wear that goes through the same rigid testing as its outdoor products.
I sneaked a photo at the store.
I have actually had the chance to see this in person when I was in Seoul. While I am not a big fan of fur rimmed hoodies, the fur component is removable. The most important thing for me was that the logo is blacked out. I understand that branding might be a social status factor in Korea, but I prefer the subtle coolness of not having one. More often than not, if you have something that looks good, your friend would ask you where you get it from. This is also the most expensive of the lot, but for good reason.
Ladies looking for one before coming over might be interested to look at The North Face Metropolis III instead.
Looking for a place to stay in Seoul for your shopping trip. Find out how you can get up to 53% off your stay with Airbnb.
Almost like a uniform for this year’s winter.
Why Puffer Jackets Are at the Centre of Korea’s Class Divide
SEOUL, South Korea — With temperatures now hovering at single digits, followed by reports of first snowfalls, a curious trend is taking off in South Korea: the puffer jacket. Its presence is ubiquitous and is worn by everyone across the country, from elementary school children in Busan to K-pop celebrities like Suzy Bae and BTS in Seoul. But the jacket is more than just a piece of practical cold-weather wear; it’s a vital fashion statement that has become a marker of class divide.
A few years ago, the craze was specifically for North Face jackets. They’re often referred to as “spine breakers,” because “parents’ [financial] backbones are ‘broken’ by having to buy these ridiculously high-priced jackets for their children,” explains Celine Hong, a Korean photographer and videographer whose clients include Vogue Korea, Dazed, Hypebeast and MM6 Maison Margiela.
While the Pyeongchang Winter Olympics this Feburary helped boost the recent trend for puffers, it is also a cultural issue with meaning that goes far deeper. “It’s a syndrome phenomenon beyond fashion. [It] starts with the middle school and high school uniform culture of Korea; students who wear the same clothing all the time began to wear padded jackets,” says Mo Kim, general director of the multi-brand concept store Rare Market.
A guest at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty A guest at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
A guest at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
The type of puffer jacket someone chooses to wear is important. “Each brand, style and colourway signifies a certain social subgroup,” he continues, explaining that playground hierarchies are determined by the choice of puffer jacket worn. It’s similar to how consumers in need of status use loud luxury goods to signal to the less affluent that they are not one of them.
In recent decades, Asia has become a region of extremes: as of 2018, four of the world’s five most expensive cities are in Asia, with Seoul coming in fifth place. Yet, a wealth gap, driven largely by wage disparity and differing levels of access to education, has opened up. It has in turn led to a hugely popular phrase among young people in South Korea, which is “hell joseon (헬조선),” roughly translating as “Korea is close to hell and a hopeless society.”
While the country has often been championed as an economic success story, thanks to the global popularity of South Korean culture known as hallyu, income equality in Korea is the worst in the Asia-Pacific region, according to a 2016 report by the International Monetary Fund, dispelling the myth that everyone here is affluent, when in fact, there is a system of hidden social strata and wider income disparity issues that are not noticed from a cursory trip to the capital city.
Similar to Japan, there are ancient codes of social hierarchies that determine a lot in Korean life. Therefore, anything that highlights this — like the status symbol of a coat — can be powerful, because it shines a light on a topic and emotions that are rarely discussed openly but that people feel. According to local media, the puffer jacket fad has caused problems in schools like theft, aggressive bullying, counterfeiting and money extortion. Some parents are even said to have bought their children expensive puffer coats to boost their self-esteem, but merely end up competing with other parents.
While change is afoot — President Moon Jae-in was elected on a wave of outrage over this growing inequality and has begun work to reverse the trend — the fact of the matter is, “every teenager I know has at least one puffer jacket,” says Hong. “It’s the most popular item in the winter season.”
Parents teach their children that by not standing out too much, they’ll be safe. It’s why Koreans tend to look alike.
But what’s really driving this trend?
It’s no secret that K-pop, K-dramas and K-beauty have become wildly popular over the past decade in Seoul and overseas. Many individuals look to their favourite Korean stars for inspiration, so when the boy-band members of BTS step out in Puma’s down padded coats, it’s likely that a legion of fans will follow. “You see celebrities on TV shows; when they’re shooting outside it’s very cold and they have to stay outside for a long time, so they wear these puffers and it becomes a big trend,” says Jung Kuho, executive director of Seoul Fashion Week, held at the Zaha Hadid–designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza. “My nephew is 13 and he really wants a long puffer jacket this winter. It’s become like a uniform for that generation.”
However, for the older generation, the puffer’s appeal has less to do with following K-pop trends and more to do with finding comfort in conformity rather than individuality in South Korea’s culturally homogeneous society. “Many parents here teach their children … that by not standing out too much in a group, they’ll be safe,” says Jung. “It’s why Koreans tend to look alike. People here love to follow trends, whichever way it goes, and a majority of people go after the same thing: they go to the same restaurants, listen to the same music.”
Korean model Irene Kim wearing an Ienki Ienki puffer jacket | Source: Ienki Ienki Korean model Irene Kim wearing an Ienki Ienki puffer jacket | Source: Ienki Ienki
Korean model Irene Kim wearing an Ienki Ienki puffer jacket | Source: Ienki Ienki
“There is a tendency for people here to follow key trends en masse,” agrees Caroline Kim, chief operating officer of Solid Corporation, an export-trading company in Seoul, but also added that “apart from the obvious reason of freezing temperatures during the winter, Koreans are generally very influenced by global trends. The popularity of streetwear and street brands has led to increased customer demand for [puffers] in Korea.”
Hip-hop and associated visual representations have recently exploded into Asia’s mainstream, prompting a hip-hop-influenced, high-end streetwear obsession. But it’s a phenomenon that isn’t restricted to the continent. (Earlier this year, rap overtook rock as the biggest music genre in the US for the first time.) Now, it’s starting to take over airwaves in South Korea, even though the country is better known for its monumental K-pop scene.
The first widely recognised Korean song containing rapping appeared in 1989, courtesy of Hong Seo-beom, a moderately popular rock musician. Then emerged Jinusean, a pioneering Korean hip-hop duo backed by YG Entertainment — the talent agency of Big Bang, G-Dragon and 2NE1 — and rappers Tiger JK and DJ Shine of Drunken Tiger, who emulated prevailing black music trends in America. However, Korean hip-hop — abbreviated as K-hop — caught global attention in 2016 when Coachella announced it would host a Korean group for the first time in its 17-year history. To the surprise of many, the invitation was not extended to leading pop idol groups like EXO or Girls’ Generation, but to alternative hip-hop group Epik High.
“When you watch Korean TV, it’s all about R&B and hip-hop. Rap is super popular right now,” says Jung, citing popular South Korean TV show “Show Me The Money,” a competition show where everyone from underground rappers to mainstream artists battle it out to bring home a cash prize. (The programme’s popularity has extended to neighbouring countries like China, leading to successful spinoffs like “The Rap of China.”) “When you look at rappers, their style and how they dress, they love big puffer jackets,” Jung continues.
The South Korean market presents a major opportunity for fashion brands, with designer apparel and accessories approximately worth $5 billion and growing 7.2 percent on average each year. And the puffer jacket phenomenon has been a boon to outerwear brands in the country.
Guests at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty Guests at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
Guests at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
In the first nine months of 2018, Moncler’s sales in Asia grew 39 percent, a spokesperson at the company told BoF, noting that China and Korea were the strongest performers. “Moncler’s down jackets are a luxury must-have … specifically for the Korean market. This style is currently one of our most popular categories.” The Italian label currently has 24 directly operated stores in the country.
Canadian outerwear brand Nobis opened shop in Korea six years ago and today, it has 33 direct retail stores across the country. “We launch two to six new styles, exclusive to the Korean market each season,” says Nobis co-founder Robin Yates, who formerly served as vice president of Canada Goose. Today, it counts Korea as among its top five performing markets.
According to a spokesperson at MatchesFashion.com, Moncler, Canada Goose, Herno, Burberry and Prada are among the luxury retailer’s best performing puffer brands and the style is among its top five categories in Korea. Brands such as The North Face, K2, Descente, D-Antidote, Youser, This is Never That and Ienki Ienki have also been popular with Korean shoppers.
Launched in 2016 by Kyiv-based Dmitriy Ievenko, who also co-founded Asthik Group, one of Ukraine’s fastest growing luxury retail companies, Ienki Ienki’s down jackets begin at around $700 and go up to $1,500. Yet, the high price tag hasn’t dented demand. “In our store, Ienki Ienki sold out straight away in its first season,” says Rare Market’s Kim.
Today, the Ukrainian outerwear label is stocked in 315 stores across 30 countries — in Seoul, it can be found in 10 Corso Como, Rare Market, Breaker, Boon the Shop, Cherbebe and Space Mue. “Each season, our orders in Korea rise about 20 percent,” founder Ievenko adds.
The puffer is also Korean menswear label D-Antidote’s bestseller for the Autumn/Winter season. “For Autumn/Winter 2018, we presented four to five puffer styles and 3,000 pieces were ordered from international retailers,” says D-Antidote designer Park Hwan-sung. The brand launched in 2014 and today has over 35 stockists worldwide.
Many Koreans are willing to spend on a brand name because of its perceived value, says art director Gary Bradnick, who has spent a lot of time in the country. “A middle class demographic has been forming over a few years … in this instance, the price tag becomes more important, as it becomes less about how cheap did you get it for, but more how much you paid to own an authentic item, which of course is a statement of one’s wealth.”
“It’s interesting because Koreans buy puffer jackets to fit in, but also to stand out and differentiate [themselves],” says Kim.
Disclosure: Kati Chitrakorn travelled to Korea as a guest of Hera Seoul Fashion Week.
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OUTERWEAR: Padded Jackets
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Before Buying a Padding Jacket in Korea, Check These 7 Things
Before Buying a Padding Jacket in Korea, Check These 7 Things
Padding (패딩) jackets or padded coats are the “national” coat in Korea during winter. There are many reasons why it is popular with Korean people. First, padding suits both men and women since it comes in a variety of unisex models. You can choose from fashionable long padding or convenient short padding. Moreover, padding is not only warm and convenient but it also creates a trend among young Koreans for light materials and beautiful designs. You don’t need to wear a lot of layers of clothes, just a T-shirt inside is warm enough when you have a long padding. So, for expats, especially those who experience their first Korean winter, and want to buy a padding jacket, please check out 7 things before you make your purchase.
1. What is the outer layer (겉감), lining (안감), and filling (충전재)?
Filling (충전재) acts as an insulating material, like the cotton in a blanket. Key ingredients commonly found in the padding material panel include:
Cotton
Wellon (special cotton fiber with added heat retaining function)
Duck down feathers (덕다운)
Goose down feathers (구스다운)
Wild goose down feathers (와일드 구스다운)
The outer layer (겉감) acts as a covering for the filling material and is commonly made of a special fabric that is waterproof and windproof.
The lining (안감) is the part that touches the body, so it will be made from a material that is soft and non-irritating.
Specialized paddings are mainly made by using materials that prevent static electricity, reflect body heat, or have a self-heating function.
2. What is the difference between natural and artificial materials?
Natural materials (천연소재) include feathers of poultry, such as ducks or geese. Meanwhile, man-made material (인공소재) includes cotton polyester, synthlate, wellon, and some similar components. Artificial materials will be cheaper than natural materials, which are more difficult to exploit.
Wellon cotton, the most popular man-made material in padding manufacturing over the past few years, is a specially processed fine fiber. It is warmer and lighter than conventional cheap cotton. Furthermore, you don’t have to be worried about avian feather allergies. Also, the price of paddings made from this material is also relatively affordable. So, many Korean people, especially Korean students, often choose to buy padding made from wellon cotton rather than goose down padding or duck down padding.
Photo Credit: compagna_official
3. Duck down and goose down
Down feather refers to the feathers in the bird’s chest part. With its light, porous and heat-retaining properties, down feathers keep warm better than the feathers in the bird’s wings. Duck down paddings don’t have as good warmth retaining ability as goose down paddings, but their price is cheaper.
Meanwhile, goose-down paddings have the ability to occupy a larger volume of gas so the ability to keep warm is better. In particular, the feathers of geese raised in cold and dry countries have a better ability to keep warm. The Korean market also introduced paddings made from wild goose down. Unlike normal goose down fathers, which is white, wild goose feathers are typically gray.
Photo Credit: classical_fit
4. Is it necessary to consider the feather-to-cotton ratio?
Currently, the main materials in paddings sold on the market include both feathers and cotton fibers. If only feathers are used, with the soft properties, the padding will be difficult to inflate and not create much space for gas storage.
Therefore, to create space for the air layers to appear, the manufacturer will add cotton fibers between the feathers. The golden ratio of these two components (cotton fibers: feathers) should be 9:1 or 8:2.
Photo Credit: clorlk
5. How many feathers is enough?
This is one of the most important factors when choosing to buy a padding. The more feathers, the higher the price. The amount of feathers weighing more than 300g is called heavy padding, and it is suitable for environments with temperatures around -25 degrees.
In Korea, the lowest temperature on the coldest days is not that much, so the amount of feather of a padding in the range of 220 – 250g is most appropriate.
6. What is Fill Power?
A thick and heavy padding is not necessarily warm. Korean garment technology is developing more and more so there are a variety of paddings that are light, warm and convenient having been introduced.
Fill power is simply the ability to restore cotton swelling after it is compacted. The higher the fill power, the more air a certain weight of the down can trap, and thus the more insulating ability the down will have. For the Korean winter, a padding with a fill power from 650 to 700 is sufficient.
Photo Credit: seoul_ajumma
7. Do paddings have to be dry-cleaned?
Many people think that because paddings are made from expensive feathers they need to be dry-cleaned. In fact, if water damages the feathers in a coat, birds such as ducks and geese cannot swim in the water.
Hence washing a padding by water (hand washing recommended) is recognized as not affecting the quality.
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Why Puffer Jackets Are at the Centre of Korea’s Class Divide
SEOUL, South Korea — With temperatures now hovering at single digits, followed by reports of first snowfalls, a curious trend is taking off in South Korea: the puffer jacket. Its presence is ubiquitous and is worn by everyone across the country, from elementary school children in Busan to K-pop celebrities like Suzy Bae and BTS in Seoul. But the jacket is more than just a piece of practical cold-weather wear; it’s a vital fashion statement that has become a marker of class divide.
A few years ago, the craze was specifically for North Face jackets. They’re often referred to as “spine breakers,” because “parents’ [financial] backbones are ‘broken’ by having to buy these ridiculously high-priced jackets for their children,” explains Celine Hong, a Korean photographer and videographer whose clients include Vogue Korea, Dazed, Hypebeast and MM6 Maison Margiela.
While the Pyeongchang Winter Olympics this Feburary helped boost the recent trend for puffers, it is also a cultural issue with meaning that goes far deeper. “It’s a syndrome phenomenon beyond fashion. [It] starts with the middle school and high school uniform culture of Korea; students who wear the same clothing all the time began to wear padded jackets,” says Mo Kim, general director of the multi-brand concept store Rare Market.
A guest at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty A guest at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
A guest at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
The type of puffer jacket someone chooses to wear is important. “Each brand, style and colourway signifies a certain social subgroup,” he continues, explaining that playground hierarchies are determined by the choice of puffer jacket worn. It’s similar to how consumers in need of status use loud luxury goods to signal to the less affluent that they are not one of them.
In recent decades, Asia has become a region of extremes: as of 2018, four of the world’s five most expensive cities are in Asia, with Seoul coming in fifth place. Yet, a wealth gap, driven largely by wage disparity and differing levels of access to education, has opened up. It has in turn led to a hugely popular phrase among young people in South Korea, which is “hell joseon (헬조선),” roughly translating as “Korea is close to hell and a hopeless society.”
While the country has often been championed as an economic success story, thanks to the global popularity of South Korean culture known as hallyu, income equality in Korea is the worst in the Asia-Pacific region, according to a 2016 report by the International Monetary Fund, dispelling the myth that everyone here is affluent, when in fact, there is a system of hidden social strata and wider income disparity issues that are not noticed from a cursory trip to the capital city.
Similar to Japan, there are ancient codes of social hierarchies that determine a lot in Korean life. Therefore, anything that highlights this — like the status symbol of a coat — can be powerful, because it shines a light on a topic and emotions that are rarely discussed openly but that people feel. According to local media, the puffer jacket fad has caused problems in schools like theft, aggressive bullying, counterfeiting and money extortion. Some parents are even said to have bought their children expensive puffer coats to boost their self-esteem, but merely end up competing with other parents.
While change is afoot — President Moon Jae-in was elected on a wave of outrage over this growing inequality and has begun work to reverse the trend — the fact of the matter is, “every teenager I know has at least one puffer jacket,” says Hong. “It’s the most popular item in the winter season.”
Parents teach their children that by not standing out too much, they’ll be safe. It’s why Koreans tend to look alike.
But what’s really driving this trend?
It’s no secret that K-pop, K-dramas and K-beauty have become wildly popular over the past decade in Seoul and overseas. Many individuals look to their favourite Korean stars for inspiration, so when the boy-band members of BTS step out in Puma’s down padded coats, it’s likely that a legion of fans will follow. “You see celebrities on TV shows; when they’re shooting outside it’s very cold and they have to stay outside for a long time, so they wear these puffers and it becomes a big trend,” says Jung Kuho, executive director of Seoul Fashion Week, held at the Zaha Hadid–designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza. “My nephew is 13 and he really wants a long puffer jacket this winter. It’s become like a uniform for that generation.”
However, for the older generation, the puffer’s appeal has less to do with following K-pop trends and more to do with finding comfort in conformity rather than individuality in South Korea’s culturally homogeneous society. “Many parents here teach their children … that by not standing out too much in a group, they’ll be safe,” says Jung. “It’s why Koreans tend to look alike. People here love to follow trends, whichever way it goes, and a majority of people go after the same thing: they go to the same restaurants, listen to the same music.”
Korean model Irene Kim wearing an Ienki Ienki puffer jacket | Source: Ienki Ienki Korean model Irene Kim wearing an Ienki Ienki puffer jacket | Source: Ienki Ienki
Korean model Irene Kim wearing an Ienki Ienki puffer jacket | Source: Ienki Ienki
“There is a tendency for people here to follow key trends en masse,” agrees Caroline Kim, chief operating officer of Solid Corporation, an export-trading company in Seoul, but also added that “apart from the obvious reason of freezing temperatures during the winter, Koreans are generally very influenced by global trends. The popularity of streetwear and street brands has led to increased customer demand for [puffers] in Korea.”
Hip-hop and associated visual representations have recently exploded into Asia’s mainstream, prompting a hip-hop-influenced, high-end streetwear obsession. But it’s a phenomenon that isn’t restricted to the continent. (Earlier this year, rap overtook rock as the biggest music genre in the US for the first time.) Now, it’s starting to take over airwaves in South Korea, even though the country is better known for its monumental K-pop scene.
The first widely recognised Korean song containing rapping appeared in 1989, courtesy of Hong Seo-beom, a moderately popular rock musician. Then emerged Jinusean, a pioneering Korean hip-hop duo backed by YG Entertainment — the talent agency of Big Bang, G-Dragon and 2NE1 — and rappers Tiger JK and DJ Shine of Drunken Tiger, who emulated prevailing black music trends in America. However, Korean hip-hop — abbreviated as K-hop — caught global attention in 2016 when Coachella announced it would host a Korean group for the first time in its 17-year history. To the surprise of many, the invitation was not extended to leading pop idol groups like EXO or Girls’ Generation, but to alternative hip-hop group Epik High.
“When you watch Korean TV, it’s all about R&B and hip-hop. Rap is super popular right now,” says Jung, citing popular South Korean TV show “Show Me The Money,” a competition show where everyone from underground rappers to mainstream artists battle it out to bring home a cash prize. (The programme’s popularity has extended to neighbouring countries like China, leading to successful spinoffs like “The Rap of China.”) “When you look at rappers, their style and how they dress, they love big puffer jackets,” Jung continues.
The South Korean market presents a major opportunity for fashion brands, with designer apparel and accessories approximately worth $5 billion and growing 7.2 percent on average each year. And the puffer jacket phenomenon has been a boon to outerwear brands in the country.
Guests at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty Guests at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
Guests at Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Photo: Getty
In the first nine months of 2018, Moncler’s sales in Asia grew 39 percent, a spokesperson at the company told BoF, noting that China and Korea were the strongest performers. “Moncler’s down jackets are a luxury must-have … specifically for the Korean market. This style is currently one of our most popular categories.” The Italian label currently has 24 directly operated stores in the country.
Canadian outerwear brand Nobis opened shop in Korea six years ago and today, it has 33 direct retail stores across the country. “We launch two to six new styles, exclusive to the Korean market each season,” says Nobis co-founder Robin Yates, who formerly served as vice president of Canada Goose. Today, it counts Korea as among its top five performing markets.
According to a spokesperson at MatchesFashion.com, Moncler, Canada Goose, Herno, Burberry and Prada are among the luxury retailer’s best performing puffer brands and the style is among its top five categories in Korea. Brands such as The North Face, K2, Descente, D-Antidote, Youser, This is Never That and Ienki Ienki have also been popular with Korean shoppers.
Launched in 2016 by Kyiv-based Dmitriy Ievenko, who also co-founded Asthik Group, one of Ukraine’s fastest growing luxury retail companies, Ienki Ienki’s down jackets begin at around $700 and go up to $1,500. Yet, the high price tag hasn’t dented demand. “In our store, Ienki Ienki sold out straight away in its first season,” says Rare Market’s Kim.
Today, the Ukrainian outerwear label is stocked in 315 stores across 30 countries — in Seoul, it can be found in 10 Corso Como, Rare Market, Breaker, Boon the Shop, Cherbebe and Space Mue. “Each season, our orders in Korea rise about 20 percent,” founder Ievenko adds.
The puffer is also Korean menswear label D-Antidote’s bestseller for the Autumn/Winter season. “For Autumn/Winter 2018, we presented four to five puffer styles and 3,000 pieces were ordered from international retailers,” says D-Antidote designer Park Hwan-sung. The brand launched in 2014 and today has over 35 stockists worldwide.
Many Koreans are willing to spend on a brand name because of its perceived value, says art director Gary Bradnick, who has spent a lot of time in the country. “A middle class demographic has been forming over a few years … in this instance, the price tag becomes more important, as it becomes less about how cheap did you get it for, but more how much you paid to own an authentic item, which of course is a statement of one’s wealth.”
“It’s interesting because Koreans buy puffer jackets to fit in, but also to stand out and differentiate [themselves],” says Kim.
Disclosure: Kati Chitrakorn travelled to Korea as a guest of Hera Seoul Fashion Week.
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Cloud Tie Dye Padded Jacket / Korean Fashion / Puffer / Winter
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Seller will cover return postage costs. Contact them for details.
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